Layers of history in Ōkārito

Lying in a narrow slice of land between Kā Tiritiri o te Moana the Southern Alps and the surging Te Tai Poutini, Ōkārito was once the third largest West Coast port and has a history of human activity that dates back to the earliest arrivals of people from Te Moana-Nui-a-Kiwa the Pacific Ocean.

A significant whare wānanga

Surrounded by ocean, estuary, coastal cliffs and lush rainforest, Māori occupation and seasonal harvesting began in Ōkārito over 600 years ago. Various hapū have held mana whenua over this area. During the occupation by Ngāti Wairangi, Ōkārito Lagoon was renowned as a significant whare wānanga – a place for learning and passing on knowledge of the whakapapa (genealogy and stories) of Te Waipounamu South Island. Rangatira, later including those from Ngāi Tahu, came here to learn the history and ways of their people from tohunga (knowledge-holders). Several pā existed here, including Kohuamaru Pā on the former Māori reserve at the edge of the current township.

Today, the Ngāi Tahu hapū Ngāti Māhaki hold mana whenua over the Ōkārito Lagoon and surrounding landscape. Māori carried considerable knowledge of the gathering of mahinga kai and the custom of kaihaukai (exchange of resources). A nohoanga, or seasonal camp, sits alongside the estuary, supporting and recognising these traditional mahinga kai activities. 

Biodiversity of Ōkārito Lagoon

The estuarine waters of Ōkārito Lagoon are a pantry for fish, shorebirds and migratory waders. A favoured place for seasonal migrations, the lagoon’s bounty includes tuna (eel), īnanga (whitebait), upokoroa (grayling) and pātiki (flounders), while the surrounding forests provided Māori a great abundance of birds, including tītī (sooty shearwater).

The lagoon is also the feeding ground of the rare kōtuku (white heron) and lies close to the only kōtuku breeding colony in the country, at Waitangi-roto. Māori prized kōtuku feathers and used them to adorn people of high rank. 

Tranquillity is interrupted by the gold rush

In the spring of 1865 miners flocked to Ōkārito in search of gold after the precious metal had been discovered in the area's black sand beaches. By early 1866, the population was 1,500. Another 2,500 people sought their fortunes just south, at Three Mile and Five Mile beaches, both of which had their own stores and hotels. Within eighteen months, miners had exhausted the black sands and Ōkārito was virtually deserted. Those who stayed moved back from the beaches and built massive water races to aid sluicing and later to run dredges.

Donovan's Store

A rare survivor from the goldrush era is the iconic Donovan's Store. Built during the first months of the gold rush, Donovan's was originally known as the ‘Club Hotel' and is the oldest known West Coast building. DOC began restoring the building in 1994 and has worked closely with the Ōkārito Community Association to restore the building’s unique construction and create a social hub for the village. Donovan’s is regularly used as a library and as a place for musicians and artists to perform and exhibit.

Ōkārito School House

Erected in 1901, the Ōkārito School House educated generations of children until dwindling populations led to its closure in 1946. Just over 10 years later the Greymouth Youth Hostel Association restored it and ran it as a YHA shelter in 1960. Between 1960 and 1990 the shelter was the only place for visitors to spend a night in Ōkārito. Additional restoration by DOC, YHA and the local community has led to this historic asset now offering bookable accommodation with a unique chance for travellers to experience the life of a bygone era.

The environmental protests of the 70s

During the 1970s, ‘Save Ōkārito’ became the catch-cry for one of the most intense environmental campaigns witnessed in New Zealand. Conservationists throughout the country rallied to stop plans to log the giant rimu forests of South Ōkārito and Waikūkūpa, home to the world’s rarest species of kiwi, the rowi. In time, the forests were saved and added to Westland Tai Poutini National Park.

Ōkārito is proudly cared for in partnership by the Department of Conservation, the Ōkārito Community Association and its residents.